"It's
not as easy as it looks," said my cousin with a bemused grin. A
seasoned surfer, he'd made a detour from hiking with friends at
Katahdin's Knife's Edge to surf with my daughter in southern Maine.
Only
he wasn't talking to her.
He
was talking to me as I dragged my daughter's surf board to the
razor's edge of the sea.
What
was I thinking?
Of
course, he was right. This would not end well. What forty-something
house frau -- who on a good day has to plan how to descend to a
squatting position after she's dropped something she just can't
abandon -- would risk life, limb and the potential for lambasting for
a moment of glory?
Points
to self.
Even
though I know this is a sport for young people who have flexibility
and supple joints, I couldn't help but delude myself into thinking
that all the time I had spent on the beach -- camera trained on my
daughter as she learned to surf -- had somehow rubbed off on me.
As
I saw her paddle out, turn her board in the direction of the wave,
and wait for her moment, I held my breath.
When
her chance came, and she started to paddle hard to get herself ahead
of the wave, I felt myself dig in.
But
it was she who popped up and rode the current in. Not me.
I
had been living vicariously.
No
matter it was my turn now, and I was going to take it. Somehow I had
gotten out there. I had hopped small waves and crashed through large
ones. I had tried not to give the ocean too much of me to smash.
When
my turn came, I pushed off, paddled as hard as I could until the
ocean swished me around in its gaping maw and spat me out.
It
wasn't pretty.
But
I stood up, tugged at the board and headed back out.
I'd
like to tell you this Old Lady conquered that sea. I'd like to tell
you I managed not to make a fool of myself. But I know you don't
believe in mermaids or fairytales.
I
never made it to standing.
A
half an hour later I was exhausted.
The
next morning my body felt like a sticky, gelatinous substance one has
to scrape off their shoe.
But
I couldn't quit. She wouldn't let me.
"You
can't give up, mom. I'll teach you."
This
would not end well. What could a tween child -- who on a good day
talks herself In circles as if her internal podcast was caught in a
scratch on a vinyl record -- do to alter the time/space continuum.
She couldn't return me to an age when I mightn't risk life, limb and
the potential for lambasting so I could bask in a moment of glory?
Maybe
it was just an exercise in futility. "Find your balance,"
she hollered as she leaned in and tipped my board sideways.
Stop
that!
"Try
to stand up."
No!
"I
think you're goofy footed. You should switch the leash to your left
ankle."
I
had no idea what she was saying.
Use
English!
"Paddle
out now. … Now come back. … Now paddle out again."
You
are enjoying this, aren't you?
She
smiled broadly.
How
could this be any more mortifying you ask?
Is
that the ACTUAL surf instructors right next to us watching and
laughing?
That's
how.
"Just
push me out," I pleaded.
"Ok.
If you think you're ready," she drawled with disdain.
One
heave and a wave had taken me. And while I expected to be rung
through the sea's spin cycle, something unexpected happened. The
board steadied in the current and gave me time to crawl to my feet,
where I crouched partway between down and up.
I'd
like to tell you this Old Lady conquered that sea. I'd like to tell
you I managed not to make a fool of myself. But I know you don't
believe in mermaids or fairytales.
I
never made it to standing.
Still,
I was laughing. And I was surfing with my daughter, not caring who
saw.
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